Guide · Housing

Buy or rent? The maths that actually decides it

The full comparison: what buying costs per month, what the renter does with the deposit, the interest deduction, mandatory amortisation, and the time horizon that decides whether you should buy or stay in the queue.

8 min readUpdated July 2026

The question is as old as the housing market itself, and the answer is almost always: it depends. But what is usually missing from the discussion is an honest number for what buying actually costs per month, and an equally honest number for what the renter can do with the money she did not lock into the deposit. When you run both sides of the ledger properly it is not obvious that buying wins, and it is not obvious that renting wins. It depends on the time horizon, the interest rate, house price growth, and what you actually do with the capital if you rent instead of buying.

The short answer

On a 10-year-or-longer horizon, buying usually wins in Sweden, but the margin is smaller than most people think. Under 5 years, renting is almost always better, especially if you invest the capital. A BRF with high collective debt is a special case where I always run the numbers more carefully. Calculate your exact monthly cost in the mortgage calculator.

I go through the full calculation step by step: what buying actually costs, what the renter can do with the rest, the Swedish specifics (interest deduction, mandatory amortisation, stamp duty and mortgage deeds), and the decisive role of the time horizon. At the end I give my personal recommendation for three common scenarios.

The wrong comparison

The most common mistake is comparing rent against interest payments alone. "My rent is 12,000 kr, the mortgage interest is 7,400 kr, so buying is cheaper." It does not hold up. At least three things are missing from that calculation: amortisation (which is admittedly a form of saving, but saving you are forced to do), the BRF monthly fee if it is a tenant-owned apartment, and most importantly, what the renter does with the 525,000 kr she did not lock into the deposit. A fair comparison has to include all running costs on the buying side, and calculate the return on capital on the renting side.

What buying actually costs

Let me use a concrete example: a tenant-owned apartment (BRF) for 3.5 million kronor in Stockholm. The deposit is 15 percent, that is 525,000 kr. The mortgage then becomes 2,975,000 kr. At an average floating rate of 3 percent the interest cost is around 7,438 kr a month. Add amortisation: with a mandatory amortisation rate of 2 percent a year (loan-to-value above 70 percent) you amortise 4,958 kr a month. Then add the BRF fee, say 4,500 kr. That gives a total monthly cost of 16,896 kr. But the interest deduction saves 30 percent of the interest cost, that is 2,231 kr, so the effective monthly cost lands at around 14,665 kr. Calculate your exact figure in the mortgage calculator.

Bear in mind that amortisation is forced saving, not a lost cost. The money stays in the property. But it is not liquid, and it is concentrated in a single asset, something a financial adviser would never recommend if it were an investment portfolio.

What renting costs and what you do with the rest

The same apartment in a rental costs around 12,000 kr a month, probably more in Stockholm, but let us use that figure. Compared to the buyer's 14,665 kr that is a difference of 2,665 kr a month the renter can invest. But that is not all: the renter also has 525,000 kr in deposit capital that was never tied up. Invested in a broad index fund at 7 percent annual return over 10 years it grows to around 1,033,000 kr. The ongoing monthly contributions of 2,665 kr, 31,980 kr per year, add a further 440,000 kr or so. That is real money, and it falls outside most buy-versus-rent calculations I have seen.

Here is the critical point: the renter's calculation only works if the money is actually invested. If the deposit and the monthly difference are consumed rather than saved, rent-and-invest loses its entire argument. That is a behavioural problem, not a maths problem, and it is why buying has historically won for most people: amortisation puts the saving on autopilot.

The Swedish-specific factors

Sweden has some features that affect the calculation more than in most other countries. First, the interest deduction: you can deduct 30 percent of your interest costs in your tax return, but only up to 100,000 kr in deductible interest per year (above that the deduction drops to 21 percent). That is a clear subsidy of ownership, and it is built into the entire Swedish housing market. Always include it in your calculation. Read more in the guide on the interest deduction.

Then the mandatory amortisation rules: 1 percent a year if the loan-to-value ratio is 50 to 70 percent, 2 percent if it is above 70 percent. This is forced saving that makes the buyer's net debt fall faster than in countries without such requirements. It is positive for those who lack discipline, but it is also capital that gets locked in and cannot be deployed elsewhere.

For a house there are also the one-off costs of stamp duty (1.5 percent of the purchase price) and mortgage deeds (2 percent on the borrowed amount above existing deeds). On a house at 3.5 million these can easily come to 105,000 kr in sunk costs on top of the deposit. That money is gone from day one and extend significantly the time needed before buying becomes profitable. For a BRF: no stamp duty or deed costs, but the risk of a higher monthly fee if the association has high debt.

Finally the capital gains tax on sale: 22 percent of the profit, with the possibility of deferral if you buy a new home. This affects the exit calculation and is worth running if you plan to sell within a few years.

Time horizon decides

The most important factor in the whole calculation is how long you plan to stay. With my assumptions above (3.5 Mkr, 3% interest, 7% stock market, 2% annual house price growth) the break-even sits somewhere around 8 to 12 years for a BRF. Below that line the disciplined renter has built up more capital than the buyer. Above it, amortisation and price appreciation have in most cases worked for the buyer.

But the assumptions matter enormously. Higher interest rates extend the buyer's break-even. A higher stock market return (say 8 or 9 percent) does the same. Lower house price growth, or even a decline, makes buying less attractive. Calculate your own situation in the mortgage calculator with the buy-versus-rent flow.

BRF or house: different economics

The two ownership forms look very different in the calculation. A BRF has lower one-off costs (no stamp duty or mortgage deeds), but you are buying into an association whose finances you do not control on your own. A BRF with high debt and low fees today can raise the fee noticeably when the association's own mortgage rolls over at a higher rate. This is the risk I see people underestimate most. Read the association's annual report carefully and use BRF Analyser for a quick look at the finances.

A house has higher one-off costs and you are responsible for maintenance yourself, which is something you can plan for but which the BRF buyer never has to think about directly (the association does it for you, built into the fee). In return you own the property outright, can extend it, and there are no collective decisions affecting your finances without your say.

My recommendation

Three scenarios where I would rent without hesitation: you plan to move within 5 years, you are looking at a BRF with debt above 10,000 kr per square metre and rising fees, or you have just arrived and do not know where in the country you will settle. In all three cases the financial cost of getting stuck in the wrong property is higher than the rent premium.

I recommend buying when the horizon is 10 years or more, you can handle the interest cost on a stress test (at least 3 percentage points above current rates), and the property is in a location with a stable or growing population. If it is a BRF: read the annual report, calculate the association's debt per square metre, and never give me "but everyone else is buying" as an argument.

The one big mistake is renting without investing the difference. If you cannot promise yourself that you will actually set the money aside, buying with forced amortisation is a rational discipline tool, even if the mathematical outcome is worse at 5 years. Do not miss the guide on buying your first home if you are facing that decision.

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